Traditional Dresses of Jammu & Kashmir – Clothing of Kashmir. The traditional folklore of Kashmir is the Chakkirwhich is sung by a chorus of singers led by the lead singer. Availability: Only One in stock. Most of the garments are made of wool, silk designed with intricate … They do not run across the full width of the cloth but are by wooden spools known as tojli, woven back and forth across each section of the warp threads using the particular thread required by that part of the pattern. Kashmir shawls were also more expensive than those of Lyons and Paisley. They were then worth their weight in gold. Later cheaper imitations of these shawls were woven in England and France, thereby ruining the market for the original handwork of Kashmir. Shop online for Kashmir products on Kashmirvilla like Kashmiri embroidered shawls, Pherans, Phirans, pashmina shawls, Cotton and Woolen suits, dry fruits, saffron, garlic, pulses, spices and many more products. They make excellent household furnishings being hand or machine washable. To the north of Jammu lies the Pir Panjal range of mountains, which separate the beautiful wooded and fertile vale of Kashmir from the rest of India. The hook is referred to as ari, Hook work covers a much larger area than needle work in the same amount of time. Directorate of Handicraft and Handloom in Sikkim was established in 1957. The shawls are woven from pashmina yarn. Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton, is done by hook rather than any needle. More often than not, the fabric that is used is usually white or cream colored while the threads can be as colorful as the designer desires them to be. Many kinds of embroidery are worked on shawls - sozni or needlework is generally done in a panel along the sides of the shawl. Another type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery. The right side of it cannot be easily distinguished from the wrong side. The major dance form is the “Roaf” performed by women, who make aesthetic movements while they sing. In fact, one of the methods to test whether a shawl is an original Kashmir kani is to check from its back whether it has been woven in separate pieces or is in a single piece. In contrast, the language used in Azad Kashmir is Pahari, since this part of Kashmir usually includes hills and mountainous areas. Kashmir still produces many beautiful textiles, though most now have a uniformity of style that inevitably comes with catering to the mass market. These cocoons are far superior to the multi-voltine ones produced in … Sometimes when the base is silk, the cost increases proportionately. Copyright © Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. All rights reserved including the right to reproduce the contents in whole or in part in any form or medium without the express written permission of Jupiter Infomedia Ltd. Due to the regal patronage of kings, the handicrafts of Jaisalmer has gained reputation. Cardboard, usually indistinguishable from Papier Mache, gives slightly when pressed firmly. Favorite Add to Hoffman - Bali Chops - Dot Batik - Kashmir - Cotton Batik Fabric by … The Jacquard loom, first used in 1818 by French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving of complicated designs. Only if one watches the manufacture of carpets, one can realise the amount of skill involved in its making. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors, all subdued. Gold is used on most objects, either as the only color, or as the highlight for certain motifs, and besides the finish of the product, it is the quality of the gold used which determines the price. The color-way of Carpet, and its details differentiate it from any other carpet. Varnish, which is applied to the finished product, imparts a high gloss and smoothness, which increases with every coat. There is today, however, output which has vivacity and individuality and matches masterful techniques with the beauty of classical design. Business listings of Fabric, Flocked Fabrics manufacturers, suppliers and exporters in Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir along with their contact details & address. The resultant fabric, made with imported know-how, compares favorably with the best in the world. Beautiful black Pashmina Woolen Suit Fabric with exquisite aari work. There are three fibers from which the Kashmiri shawls are made- wool, Pashmina and shahtoosh. They are woven on a fame-loom using countless needles called tooji, which have woolen thread colors attached to them. In response to this British initiative, production of Kashmir shawls was begun in Mimes, Lyons and Alsace, in France. High in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni or Tibetan antelope. The designs painted on objects of Papier Mache are brightly colored. The quality of embroidery and thickness of the raffel determines the price. The all-over patterns worked with delicate fill-in stitches are produced even today and can stand well against the finest products of the world. One proof of it is the dorukha, double sided shawl. 2. The beautiful Vale of Kashmir is justly famed for its textiles, above all for the Kashmiri shawl. Embroidered using a hook ("aari") and woolen yarns, crewel fabrics are made in cotton, silk organza, velvet, linen and jute fabrics. The financial value of a piece of work is determined … The finest variety of all, however, as the aksi reflection, in which the design is produced on one side by splitting the warp threads into half, leaving the other side plain or embroidered with another pattern. Sometimes a shawl was offered as a ransom for the king or offered as tax in recognition of the suzerainty of a powerful ruler. The vibrant culture of Jammu and Kashmir is also reflected in the textile crafts of the state, comprising the much famous Pashmina shawls, carpets and Namdah rugs, Pherans, chain stitch and crewel work with distinct embroideries. The origin of most of the Indian crafts is from Rajasthan. Mens pherans are always made of tweed or coarse wool; womens pherans, somewhat more stylized, are most commonly made of raffel, with designs of ari or hook embroidery at the throat, cuffs and edges. However, besides at least three different grades of Papier` Mache, some are actually cardboard or wood! pronunciation, accent and sometimes meanings vary from Region to Region. The major cultivated items by the Kashmiris are Rice, Wheat, Maize, Tobacco, Rape seed, mustard, linseed, toria, cotton seed, pulses, saffron, potatoes, turnips, carrots, spinach, tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflowers, radish, onions, lotus-stalk, brinjal, gourd and bitter gourd, etc. By 1850 and 1860, the export of shawls to Europe increased many folds, but this expansion was a prelude to the sudden collapse of the industry. In the 1780s and 1790s, attempts were made first in Norwich, and then in Edinburgh, to imitate Kashmir shawls, and by 1808, weavers in Paisley were producing their own shawls to a Kashmir pattern. Chain Stitch and Crewel FurnishingsBecause of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmir is in great demand all over the world. Arabic format is adopted as a writing script. The climate of J&K is congenial for rearing both uni-voltine and bivoltine silkworm species for cocoon production. This in turn influenced the design of shawls in Kashmir. The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. Kashmir is itself connected to the east by a series of high passes to Ladakh. Though the embroidery originated in the form of shawl ornamentation, it is now used to decorate a range of articles including yardage, home furnishings, jackets, coats, mufflers,jutis(leather footwear) etc. Silk usually have cotton base. Shahtoosh, the legendary ring shawl is incredible for its lightness, softness and warmth. Keywords: Handicrafts, Kashmir, Pashmina, Shawls, Traditional IPC Int. The form of clothing is designed to counter the cold climate of the region. The majority is made out of a yarn called raffal, introduced at the beginning of the twentieth century, which is spun out of merino wool. We also offer the option of customizing apparel and home decor products. Vegetable dyeing on hand-woven cotton sheets was once the norm, with sonehri (gold) and rupehri (silver) printing a speciality, but now aniline dyes are used on mill-made cloth. ShawlsThe origins and development of the Kashmir Shawl owe to Kashmirs location, cut off as it is by the Pir Panjal range and to its position at the crossroads of some of Asias great Trade Routes. Pashmina yarn is spun from the hair of the ibex found at 14,000 ft. above the sea level, although pure pashmina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought down by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool. During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are shed and it is these, which are painstakingly collected until there are enough for a shawl. As with the weaving, embroidery is a male profession. However if we go further up along the paths of historical archives of fashion, it can be found that this embroidery was also creatively initiated by the residents of Srinagar. The Iranians, who came to Kashmir via the Ladakh route, gave the fabric its name, ‘Pashmina’. This form of embroidery is also used for bags, carpets, wall hangings, room dividers and so forth. The deterioration of the traditional Kashmir shawl production is well documented, and the story of declining standards and of mass production resulting from the need to meet a foreign and seemingly limitless market demand is a salutary tale for folk craftwork worldwide. Exports created a fashion market in Europe and very soon stimulated competition from there. The colorful felt motifs are inspired from their ancestors from Iran and are seamlessly layered with the base without a stitch. Crewel works is also executed on curtains, rugs, wall hangings and is considered as one of the finest quality of embroidery work in Valley. This fleece grows during the harsh and extremely cold winter, underneath the goats outer hair and is shed at the beginning of summer. A Namda containing 80% wool is more expensive than the one containing 20% wool. However, the cocoon reared in Kashmir is of the superior quality, yielding an extremely fine fiber, and any silk woven from this thread becomes known. The prices of these three cannot be compared - woolen shawls being within the reach of the most modest budget, and Shahtoosh being once-in-a-lifetime purchase. NamdasFar less expensive are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fiber, manually pressed into shape. These shawls have come to be known as Kalu shawls though they are woven all over the Himachal region. The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence in the form of Kashida embroidery into the fashion world way back in the Mughal period which was patronized by the emperors and the royals of that era. PheransThis garment, somewhere between a coat and a cloak, is eminently suited to the Kashmiri way of life. 1. As patterns were dictated from Europe, there was a two-year gap between the design being sent out to Kashmir, and the return of the finished product, so that the latest shawls were already outmoded by the time they arrived. And while on the subject of colors, it should be kept in mind that although the colors of Kashmiri carpets are more subtle and muted than elsewhere in the country, only chemical dyes are used-vegetable dyes have not been available now for about hundred years. Woolen carpets always have a cotton base (Warp and Weft). Both embroidery and the type of wool used results in the differences in its price. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather like dyeing gold! The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. Crewel fabrics have excellent light-blocking capability making them a good … When the pounding has not been thorough, the finish is less smooth. In the ancient period all the imperial kings and rulers had given patronage to art and architecture. CarpetA Carpet is a life long investment-it may well be the single most expensive purchase during your trip to Kashmir. A Single knotted carpet is fluffier and more resistant to touch. Exclusive. Illustration of decoration, fabric, asian - 197175911 Occasionally, carpets are made on a cotton base, mainly of woolen pile with silk yarn used as highlights on certain motifs. They can only be loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. We are able to fully customize our products as per your requirement. Its natural color is mousy brown, and it is, at the most, sparsely embroidered. Yes, from Kashmir to Kanyakumari, every region has its own handloom techniques that are used to weave many unique fabrics. 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